Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia also carries the nickname “Beauty on the Danube”, and with Vienna holds the title of the closest major cities in Europe with the mutual distance of 60 km.

Working hours are odd in Bratislava for the people who are used on the “early morning” working hours like in Croatia. Shops, restaurants and pubs usually open around 11:00 am in the morning and there are very few of those in which you will be able to peek in the morning. So our tour started in one of those really rare. It is a Dubliner Irish Pub , which offers traditional Irish food, liquor, and other than Guinness and Kilkenny very poor offer of a good beer, of which emphasizes domestic Zlaty Bazant which was bought by Heineken. Besides having Hoegaarden, Staropramen, Velvet, and of course Heineken, price of draft Guinness 0,4 l is  4 €, same as for the Kilkenny of 0,5 l . Zlaty Bazant is  2.30 €. Food is quite a high price even for the Bratislava opportunities, so the prices of hamburgers range from  9.90 €. I believe that I ate a lot better burger for a lot less money. I decided, however, for the traditional Irish shepherd’s soup with potatoes, beef, leeks, carrots and two slices of bread as a supplement. It was quite tasty, spiced just right and it managed to warm me up from the Bratislava wind and cold. Price is  4.5 €. A colleague ordered the traditional Irish omelet and waited for him more than 15 minutes when the waitress ventured to say that the kitchen does not have eggs. Probably she tried to find an open shop in the meantime.

Just opposite the Dubliner is a restaurant with interesting title: Black pit , that through their street advertisement offered “the best craft beer in town”. It turns out that in fact all the beer they are offering is not the Slovakian but Czech, and also they do not have any beer list, but the waiter throws out of his head all the offers. Of course, on the combination of intelligible Slovakian-English language. The decision came on the Bakalar lager produced by Rakovnik Brewery . How is this brewery craft or not, I was not able to find out, but this lager after the Bazant was just fine. The only dark beer that they offer is Černovar Černé  , really good Czech Dunkel from already listed brewery. The aroma is  some coffee and roasted malt, as well as in taste with the addition of dark chocolate.

According to some sources by TripAdvisor, ORBIS Street food has Belgian fries. You must be wondering the difference between French fries and Belgian fries, and why they are  separated when to some of the people they are just French fries. French fries are baked once, drained, salted and served, but Belgian fries are fried once at a lower temperature, drained, and again roasted at a higher temperature so that the outside can be nice and crispy. This can be seen when you enter into the ORBIS  where there is a big pile of previously lightly toasted chips. These are some of the best fries I’ve tasted. Fine are crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside and quite tasty with taste some fine fat in which they are fried. Small portion 100 g + 25 g sauce ( if desired )  is  1.95 €, while the big one of 250 g + 50 g sauce costs 2.95 €.

In the evening the city quite perks, especially at this time of Advent when I was there, and in some restaurants is almost impossible to find a free table. So we hardly pushed in the Pansky Hostinec which is located close to the legendary monument of Čumil, which is known for its wide selection of craft beers (Pansky Hostinec, not Čumil). The choice fell on the Slovak Kalteneker IPA. Non intensive in flavour, almost imperceptible dose of hops and the medium-strong taste of bitterness followed by a slow drying of the mouth in the aftertaste. Pretty good and very drinkable beer. Price:  2.40 € for “velke pivo”.

The road took us a little bit outside of the centre of the town near the old market place in a former cinema / theatre that was redecorated in the largest Bratislava pub called Bratislavská Restauracia or the Flag Ship . Huge place for which I suggest a reservation if you choose to dine or drink, because despite its size, it was filled . We managed to chase away some cultural tourists and make a free space. The menu states that all beers do not come from traditional cask, but from ten hectolitre tanks of stainless steel in which the beer is transported from the brewery tanks in the so-called bag-in-box system. All this would be great if the offer would not have prevailed by previously mentioned Heineken’s Zlaty Bazant. The decision this time was the Zlaty Bazant Medovy Porter . Dark colour with plenty of thick, brown carbonised foam. The aroma is dominated roasted malt, coffee, a little honey and dark chocolate. Medium bitterness in taste with a creamy structure in which is notable dark chocolate and coffee. Enough favourable for a commercial beer. It costs  1.80 € for 0,5 l.
Second-tested  beer offer was from the Czech pilsner Dobre pifko which also produces Heineken Slovakia. Nothing worth mentioning. Price 1.50 € to 18 h, and then is 1.60 €. For such a great pub it was a poor beer offer.

 

After a bad experience with commercial Heineken products (except Medovy Porter) from the night before, the second day in Bratislava passed with a much better choice of craft beers. The first in the series was the Bratislava Meštiansky Pivovar. Very popular restaurant / brewery, which during the day is filled to it’s maximum capacity. They produce two kinds of beer: Dunkel Bratislavský Bubák 12° Tmavé   and Czech Pilsner Bratislavský Ležiak 12°.

Bratislavsky Bubak is dark brown, almost black with thin white foam. In a rather strong aroma you can feel roasted malt, coffee, caramel and chocolate. Medium carbonated body in which is particularly manifested  dark chocolate. Very good Dunkel. Price:  1.90 € for 0,4 litres.
Bratislavsky Ležiak is yellow in colour with a thin white foam. The aroma is malt and a slight influence of citrus. Medium carbonated body where the flavour comes to the  fruitiness and medium bitterness. Enough smooth. Price:  1.40 € for 0,3 l.

This restaurant is on a voice for the best ribs in Bratislava witch cost  16 € for portion. My choice however were potato dumplings stuffed with smoked meat, sauerkraut, caramelized onions and sour cream on the side. Very good combination and a very tasty dish for  6.70 €

The next craft brewery  on our planned tour was Hostinec Richtár Jakub , but it was closed because of their anniversary celebration, so we continued to Starosloviensky Pivovar that brews:

Pressburg IPA 14º … Svatojánský brewer
Pressburg 11º spruce beer
Pressburg Radler (grep, raspberry, lemon, cherries)
Pressburg polotmavé 11º
Pressburg Tmava 12º
Pressburg RUBIN RED ALE 12º
Pressburg HONEY ALE 14º
Pressburg Bock 16º … Svatojánský brewer

The decision came for Pressburg IPA 14º . Dark copper colour and not intense aroma in which I could only find some glimpses of grapefruit. Medium sweet taste in the beginning, which transformed into a slight bitterness, and eventually comes quite a long, bitter and pleasant finish. Good IPA. Price:  2.30 € for 0,5 l.
Pressburg RUBIN RED ALE is dark red with a thick,  brown foam. Malt flavours and drinkable, very good taste with medium-carbonised body. Price:  2.10 € for 0,5 l. They also offer beer in plastic bottles “to go” for  3.40 € per litre, while on the Sunday all the beer is  1.50 €. If you order on Saturday “this beer on Sunday” you will not get it at the Sunday price. Believe me, we tried:)

Also on offer they have and schnapps made from brewing distillates, so-called Pivovička whose price per litre reaches 76 €. Really sharp, a little carbonised, but tasty  with nice heating kick.

In order to follow the rhythm of craft beer testing you need something to eat. Why not try the local venison stew with cranberries and bread dumplings? Why not. Goulash was perfectly seasoned, without large amounts of fat floating on the surface, very good bread dumplings which fit perfectly with the sauce, meat and cranberries. The price is a little higher,  9 € per serving, but is definitely worth it.

And while as a tourist you walk over the Bratislava, you may encounter to no less, than a kiosk with craft beer. However, a person who works there could hardly speak English, a little bit more Slovak language, but if you order with your legs and arms, maybe you will get the beer you asked for. For example, take the Czech Primator Oatmeal Stout which is more pure Stout than Oatmeal Stout, but it was good.

If you’re interested in traditional Slovak food , like, for example garlic soup with cheese in bread , then the right choice is Slovak Pub . It extends on a fairly large space and apart from traditional Slovak food contains and traditional Heineken Slovakia beer. Again, here I recommend Zlaty Bazant Medovy Porter. I was not in the mood for something like their traditional soup in bread , but my choice was the local stew , or Kotlíkový guláš containing pork, beef , potatoes and peppers. ” Okay , that doesn’t look like a big portion ” I have thought when the waitress brought the food. However , the entire time I had the feeling that the vessel had no bottom and that it will never be able to eat it all . Because of the pork you can still see the fat on the surface, but that does not diminish the good taste . Good balance of food quality , quantity and price :  4.40 € for the portion.

La Cocina is located at the end of the Bratislava’s old town  and is primarily focused on the wine offer, but they have Pilsner Wywar 12 ° Světlý Ležiak produced in Holíčsky Pivovar Wywar. Dark orange colour with a thick white foam. The aroma is felt fruit and malt. Enough smooth, medium carbonated and more sweet taste, but also pretty good price: 1.70 € for 0,5 l.

 

Published by foodwinebeertravel site